Guanajuato: The Death Of Heritage

Gentrification is "the process of renewal and rebuildingJust think of this.
accompanying the influx of middle-class or affluentWhen was the last time you waltzed into Wal-Mart to
people into deteriorating areas that often displacesbuy a pair of socks, a transaction taking mere minutes,
earlier, usually poorer, residents" (Webster's).but left refreshed and more energized than when you
Gentrification is occurring in Guanajuato.went in? When was the last time you spent an hour,
When we decided to move to Guanajuato instead ofmaybe two, in Wal-Mart (and all you came to buy
to one of the many cities in Mexico, it was because itwere socks) because you saw someone you knew
was, at that time, "still Mexico." Gringos liveand took the time to talk and minister to one another's
everywhere in this marvelous country. The largestneeds?
populations are in Mexico City as well as in the resortWhen was the last time you went to a Wal-Mart
areas of the West Coast. It is estimated that aroundsuperstore because you knew you might meet
25,000 gringos live in Puerto Vallarta."so-and-so" and get to see what's happening in her life
San Miguel de Allende, in the state of Guanajuato inand share what's happening in your life?
Mexico's heartland, has about 12,000 Gringos-most ofThat's what we saw in Guanajuato: a life we
whom come from the USA.remembered, loved, cherished, and missed from our
We didn't want to live in any of the areas wherechildhoods in the 50's and early 60's.
Americanization has taken over to extent that theyDowntown Guanajuato, or El Centro, is not so much a
are barely recognizable as Mexico. San Miguel deplace to go but a place to find friends, to relax, to
Allende is a perfect example of how the influence ofrecharge. Shopping in small, Mom-and-Pop shops here
such a large, and might I add, excessively demandingis more than an activity to forage for your daily bread.
American enclave has changed the town from colonialThese shops are places to forage for souls, for
Mexico to Gentrified Mexico. Americanization is itscompanionship, for support.
defining theme. San Miguel de Allende "looks" Mexican.Do you remember when America was like that?
It is, however, Mexican in facade only.Superstores come into towns like plagues. They are
We wanted to live where that wasn't happening orable to buy products at such huge wholesale discounts
where it hadn't yet happened. We chose the city ofand in such quantities, the small, traditional, and
Guanajuato.heritage-sustaining-Mom and-Pop shops cannot keep
Did we err?up. Soon, they are run out of business. They die.
Late in 2006, the first signs of Gentrification in colonialDowntown becomes a fantasy land. It becomes a
Guanajuato began. A Mexican version of a "Supertheme park like Disneyland where tourists come to
Wal-Mart" opened. We now have a Mega superstore.see how people "used to live." The city planners
It is an anchor store in an indoor mall that containsrename downtown as the "historic center" where
what you would expect to see in any mall in the USA.people come to see "history" and shop at insidious little
There is a Blockbuster video store, General Nutrition,boutiques that target the rich tourists. The point I am
and various other stores that no averagetrying to make is that downtown Guanajuato is not a
Guanajuatense (someone who lives in Guanajuato)"historic center" but it is alive and is where life still goes
could possibly afford. There is even an exclusiveon, businesses are run, and people live. It has history
men's store with clothing imported from Italy. And, tobut is very much alive as it was hundreds of years
top it all off, there is cholesterol-laden, heartago. It is where life is being lived and not now history.
tissue-destroying, obesity-inducing MacDonald's sellingSuperstores will change all of that.
seven-dollar hamburgers. They've also throw in aThe locals in a city like Guanajuato think superstores
multiplex movie theater for good measure.are a good thing-at first. Then reality sets in. They are
Just as in America where the arrival of theseforced to shop in these superstores because the small
superstores has all but ruined small downtownneighborhood stores are dead and gone. The locals
America, these stores in Mexico are causing the samehave to get their food somewhere. It is the superstore
problem. Whether it is a Wal-Mart (and Mexico hasor nothing. It seems rather diabolical to me. It seems
plenty of them), or the Mexican version, Mega, theywell planned. It seems to be done on purpose.
have come into towns without a thought about howSuperstore overlords know what they are doing.
they will effectively alter the lives of hundreds, if notNot only do the locals have no other alternative but the
thousands. What happens is a way of life, one thatsuperstore for sustenance, they also soon realize they
works, one that enriches, one that promotescannot get to the store conveniently. So, they reason,
community and the fellowship of its members, iswe must get a car to get to the poorly located
destroyed.superstore. Thus, car traffic increases in a city where
Heritage is lost forever.there are already too many cars with no place to put
What has happened all over America is happeningthem. It is a city that is becoming increasingly polluted
here. In America, Wal-Mart has become the newbecause American car manufacturers have convinced
"downtown." In the days of yesteryear when I was aMexicans that you haven't arrived in the world unless
kid, it was a custom to go downtown. We would walkyou own a car.
the sidewalks, stare at the window displays, and endI cannot help wonder how much Americanization has
up where everyone did-the drugstore. There we sat,to do with all of this.
drank sodas and ate ice cream while our parentsThe Mega store that opened here is nothing more
caught up on the neighborhood gossip. It was therethan a Super Wal-Mart on steroids. It also has a
where relationships were forged and strengthened. Itdubious history in Mexico of forcing the Wal-Mart
was there where those in trouble found comfort andbusiness model on Mexico and her people. And, they
solace. It was there where you would findemploy the American Wal-Mart business model.
reassurance that, though the world seemed to beOpen a huge megalithic warehouse of a store, buy
falling apart, you could survive with the help of yourproducts at wholesale prices, and the people will come.
friends. It was true community.No matter that these stores destroy the heart and
Now in America, no one drives to downtown if onesoul of a city. The almighty dollar (peso) reigns
even exists. No one walks anywhere. Wal-Mart and allsupreme. There is no doubt in my mind that these
its derivatives are the new downtown. Instead of goinggiants can and do offer better prices at what the
downtown to shop, everyone heads to where theMom-and-Pop shops can. No doubt!
products are offered at prices the old localBut, at what cost?
Mom-and-Pop shops cannot possibly beat. Instead ofA way of life is threatened. A way of life that sustains
catching up on the gossip, instead of forgingand nourishes is lost. Life is irreparably broken.
relationships, instead of finding comfort, solace, andSomething that works-life-is messed with and is
strength to get you through a crisis, instead ofconsequently ruined forever.
community, you find a cold and impersonal factoryThere is no going back.
where you recognize no one. You find a sea ofLest you think I am bitter in attributing this to Imperialistic
people rushing in and out of a warehouse filled withBusiness Americanization, listen to this:
goods. No one talks. The employees barelyI was in the mall in Leon, Guanajuato, and asked a man
acknowledge the customers. Everyone rushes throughwhy he liked coming to the mall. The response blew
the store trying to get their stuff as fast as they canme away,
so they can leave and get back to what has become"I come here," the Mexican man told me, "because it is
a miserable urban existence.here where I can pretend I am in America.
Too harsh? I don't think so.