Hello From Ottawa - Doubling Up On Antiquity At The Museum Of Civilization

Today culture was on my mind. After enjoying twoexperienced many earthquakes, but a tremor in 363
interesting exhibits at the Canadian Museum ofAD hit the city particularly hard. Half the city was
Contemporary Photography, I made my way acrossdestroyed and the water system was disrupted. With
the river to the City of Gatineau (formerly Hull) to visitthe increase of ocean trade, the decline of land-based
Canada's most popular museum: the Canadiantrade routes through this area had already affected
Museum of Civilization. This rewowned Canadianthe city earlier and it seems that Petra was unable to
institution is known for its unique architecture and ismuster the resources to rebuild itself. In the early 7th
host to the Canadian Postal Museum, the Canadiancentury, Muslim Arabs arrived in Petra from the south.
Children's Museum, an IMAX Theatre (which I wasThe transition to Islamic rule appears to have been
going to visit later today) and a variety of specialrelatively peaceful in Southern Jordan.
exhibitions.By the seventh century Petra was finally abandoned
The Canadian Museum of Civilization has three majorand remained virtually lost to the outside world. It was
galleries: the Grand Hall, which is the architecturalnot until 1812 that a Swiss explorer, Johann Burckhard,
centerpiece of the museum, Canada Hall as well asrediscovered the city. Today, less than five percent of
the First People's Hall. The 112 x 15 m (365 ft x 50 ft)the city has been unearthed, so this ancient city of
glass wall of the Great Hall features a magnificentstone still has many secrets to reveal.
view of Ottawa's Parliament Buildings and hosts theThe exhibit itself consists of many components,
world's largest collection of indoor totem poles.including artifacts, architectural detailing, jewellery, vases
My goal today was to see a special exhibition: aand other objects. Some of the highlights of the
traveling exhibition organized by the Cincinnati Artexhibition are a striking gravestone bearing the likeness
Museum and the American Museum of Natural Historyof a man's head, a recently discovered column capital
under the patronage of Her Majesty Queen Raniawith elephant heads, a relief carving of a standing
Al-Abdullah of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan."eagle and a recently reassembled sculpted garland
Petra - Lost City of Stone" is the most completefrieze from one of the city's main temples. 19th century
portrait ever assembled of the amazing and enigmaticpaintings, drawings and prints illustrate the city's
city of Petra. This exhibit tells the story of arediscovery by Burckhard in 1812 and Petra -
once-thriving metropolis at the crossroads of theCrossroad of the Ancient World is an 8 minute film
ancient trade routes.that presents a brief cultural history of this city. It also
Its inhabitants, the Nabateans, constructed aillustrates the Nabateans' unique rock-cutting process
magnificent city in a harsh desert environment. Petraas well as their water management and storage
only receives about 15 centimeters (6 inches) of rain atechniques.
year. Ingenously its residents were able to control theThis historical exhibition is augmented by a photo
water supply of the city by capturing and collectingexhibit: The Bedouin of Petra is a collection of 25
water from flash floods in more than 200 undergroundcolour photographs by award-winning photojournalist
cisterns which would then be redistributed through theVivian Ronay. The photos were taken at various times
city through a system of clay pipes. This stored waterbetween 1986 and 2003 and document the life of the
was used during periods of extended drought and theBedoul Bedouins, and their transition from a pastoral life
city even prospered from the sale of the water. Into a lifestyle based on tourism. The Bedoul had lived in
effect the ancient Nabateans had created an artificialtents and caves among the ruins of the ancient city
oasis.until the Jordanian government became concerned
Originally the Nabateans were traveling merchants, butabout the city's preservation. They were then invited to
they became even more prosperous once theymove to a nearby village where modern housing and
settled down and started serving and taxing otherfacilities would be provided. The majority of them
traveling merchants. Being located at the intersectionmoved from tents and caves to conventional houses,
of several caravan trade routes, the Nabateansgiving up their old life as herders and farmers to work
integrated art and architecture from other cultures.in the tourism industry. A fascinating look at an ancient
Asian elephants, for example, were a popular symbolpeople who have undergone an enormous change in
for strength, many carvings found show artisticlifestyle.
elements from in the art and mythology of AncientAs if Petra wasn't fascinating enough, I decided to add
Greece. Several centuries later, Byzantine Christian artanother encounter with antiquity. I walked over to the
was widely adopted.Museum's IMAX Theatre to see a special presentation:
Petra's surrounding natural environment is visiblyGreece - Secrets of the Past. This IMAX Theatre is
stunning and geologically unique. A dark and narrowthe first of its kind in the world and actually combines
gorge called the Siq (the "shaft") cut into sandstonetwo IMAX technologies. The size of the vertical
forms the eastern access to the city. In some placesscreen is 10 times the size of a conventional movie
the Siq is only 3 to 4 metres wide and its end standsscreen and tilts into place to convey a multi-dimensional
the magnificent ruin of the Treasury (Al Khazneh), anexperience, as close as possible to actually being
absolutely stunning decorated façade hewn outthere.
of the natural stone. In total, Petra had 3000 temples,This realistic quality was definitely appreciated since
tombs and dwellings and during its heyday theone of the movie's opening sequences starts with a
population was an estimated 20,000 people. Originallyflight over the Mediterranean and a stunning look down
these structures were covered with stucco andon some of the Greek islands. In dramatic pictures I
brightly painted, which must have been a spectularlearned about the formation of the island of Santorini
view in this desert environment.and its volcanic eruption: the most powerful explosion
Despite the abundance of temples we actually knowin history.
relatively little about the religion of the Nabateans. TheyImages of Athens and the Acropolis demonstrated
apparently had a small number of Gods, with Dusharathat 2500 years ago Greece was indeed the cradle of
being the most important male god, and Al-UzzaWestern civilization. Art and architecture flourished
representing the most important female deity.while science, philosophy and literature reached
Petra celebrated its zenith between 200 B.C. and 200impressive heights. The camera follows in the
A.D. when it was one of the major trading centersfootsteps a team of archeologists and introduced the
linking the Silk Road and the spice routes thataudience to innovations in this scientific field.
connected China, India and Arabia with buyingGreece: Secrets of the Past is a MacGillivray
consumers in Greece, Rome, Egypt and Syria. In 106Freeman Film produced by Alex G. Spanos in
A.D. Petra was annexed by the Roman Emperorassociation with the Canadian Museum of Civilization
Trajan. During the Byzantine period the city had itsand Museum Film Network with major funding
own bishop and later large Christian churches wereassistance from the National Science Foundation.
built.Incidentally Nia Vardalos (from "My Big Fat Greek
Being located in a seismically unstable area, Petra hadWedding") narrates the feature.