California Livin'

California Livin'horror stories to tell, either about themselves, their
The Pacific Coast Highway, or PCH, runs along thefamilies or friends.
Californian coast. For much of the way heading northIt was the aftermath I found the most unsettling for, as
from Los Angeles up to Santa Barbara and beyond, itI have said, the aftershocks went on for months even
skirts the beach winding its way around the mountainsthough they slowly decreased in intensity. For the first
which rise up immediately to its right. On the other sidefew days, as each shock came through, I found
of the road, perched between the road and the oceanmyself heading for the dining room table at home or
are various enclaves favoured by the rich and famous.my desk in the office or ducking as if something were
Part of Malibu sits on the beach on the left-hand sideabout to fall on me. Indeed, for the first couple of nights,
of PCH, a thin strip of highly expensive real estate thatI put a mattress under the dining room table and slept
ordinary mortals only dream of sharing. But,on it secure in the knowledge that I would have some
paradoxically, some of these enclaves are located inprotection if another quake came through. Many
the most dangerous areas of all.months later I was having dinner with my family in a
They are, to begin with, prone to damage from therestaurant near Cambridge when one of the waiters
fires that rip across the mountains and which teardropped something heavy. To everyone's
down the canyons towards PCH. If the winds are inastonishment, instinct kicked in and I was soon heading
the wrong direction, sparks and embers fly across thefor the floor before I realised I was not in California.
road and can lodge in the timber shingles and set themEarthquakes are caused when two tectonic plates rub
alight. Fires on the mountains destroy the roots ofup against each other and find a way to relieve the
some plants and the soil can thus become eroded,pressure thus created. In the case of California, two
setting off avalanches of stones and boulderssuch plates are to be found in the San Andreas Fault.
towards and across the road. And, if that were notThere are a large number of places where this fault
enough, there are the terrific mudslides that comecan actually be seen, and I used to take visitors to one
cascading down the mountain sides and sweepsuch spot in the San Gabriel Mountains, about an hour's
across PCH in sudden muddy floods. These aredrive north-east of Los Angeles. Many of my chums
caused by the rains loosening the soil to the pointthought I was out of my mind when, later on, I rented a
where the ground just gives way under its owncabin in these mountains just a mile away from the
weight. Many times have I seen the earth-movingfault itself. I reasoned, however, that in the event of
machinery out and about clearing up the rock fallsanother earthquake my cabin would merely 'float' and
(some of which were caused by earth tremors, andbe undamaged. Fortunately, this was never put to the
mudslides along PCH.test.
And so we have seen in the news broadcastsAs we have seen recently the next most destructive
recently, pictures of the houses in that and other partsnatural phenomenon that Californians have to put up
of Malibu, and indeed elsewhere along the Californianwith is the fires which regularly blaze through the
coast, destroyed by the fire that makes no distinctionmountains, often fanned by the dry Santa Anna winds
between rich and poor and which settles on thethat the area gets around October time. The recent
timber-framed houses that make up the majority inone was encouraged by the driest period in recorded
California.history and, so it is being said, exacerbated by sporadic
Few people can be unaware of these catastrophicarson. It is not generally known that much of the
fires which raged through seven counties on theCalifornian scrub land relies on occasional fires for
Californian coast from Santa Barbara in the north pastregeneration purposes in much the same way as
San Diego in the south and on into Mexico and whichsome plants in the Australian bush rely on fires to
necessitated over one million people being evacuatedrelease seed pods and put some nutrient into the soil.
from their homes (the largest evacuation of peopleThus, in my time in Los Angeles there were fires
since the Civil War), killed half a dozen people andevery year, some more destructive than others. Most
which razed close to 2,000 properties and causedwere caused by lightning strikes or spontaneous
damage costing billions of dollars. When you considercombustion of dry vegetation, though falling power lines
that the same area is subject to earthquakes andand deliberate arson are also factors these days.
mudslides, and plays host to rattlesnakes andThe one that occurred in October 1993, for example,
tarantulas and God knows what else besides, it is ahad devastated more than 80,000 acres of land by its
wonder that anyone in their right minds would choosesecond night, destroyed over 500 homes and buildings
to live there.and caused more than 30,000 people to be evacuated
I lived in Los Angeles for three years from 1992. In thatfrom their homes. There were at that time eighteen
time, we had three days of rioting, a seriousmajor fires that were being spread to smaller ones
earthquake, major fires along the coast and, in the wetthanks to Santa Anna winds gusting up to 75 mph.
weather, mudslides as well. People sometimes askedA few weeks after this fire, I took my usual weekend
me why I chose to live there. The answer, of course,drive through the Santa Monica mountains and was
was that I didn't choose to live there; I was postedastonished not only at the sheer extent of the
there and, on the whole, enjoyed my time living indevastation, but of the signs of regeneration. Buildings
Marina del Rey and working in Century City. Otherthat I had driven past were no more; only the brick
people move to California to enjoy the very mildchimney stacks of the wooden houses showed that a
climate and hope not to be affected by the naturalbuilding once existed there. A swimming pool,
disasters that occur there on a regular basis.seemingly in the middle of nowhere but obviously in
I suppose that of all the natural disasters, earthquakeswhat was originally someone's back yard, stood
are the most serious. The one which struck Losincongruously and full of water stained black from the
Angeles without any warning in the early hours of 14smoke and soot of the fires. Scorch marks across
January 1994 was devastating by any standards.some of the mountain roads showed where fires,
Over forty people were killed, more than 3,000 peoplefanned by the high winds, had seared the surfaces.
seriously injured and, at a sudden stroke, more thanThe mountains in the main had been burned to the
30,000 people rendered homeless. Major roads andground, though there were odd patches of green
bridges were severed and thousands of buildingswhich the flames had not touched. And the mountains
destroyed or rendered dangerous. The cost ran intowere eerily quiet for the birds would not return until
billions. The aftershocks, some of which seemedthere was somewhere to roost and something to eat.
almost as heavy as the original quake, went on forPerhaps the mudslides don't make the newspaper
many months. By the middle of that May, it washeadlines overseas but they can sometimes be as
estimated that there had been more than 8,000 ofterribly destructive as the fires. Heavy rain loosens the
them. The aftershocks were very unsettling and forsoil which at points is unable to sustain its own weight.
many days after the quake, hundreds of thousands ofThe result is avalanches of mud that swoop down the
people slept out of doors in tents or makeshift sheltersmountain sides, often taking houses along with it in
so as to get some relief from the danger of fallingmuch the same way as European avalanches of
masonry.snow can. I've seen the householders along the Pacific
When an earthquake strikes, instinct (probably boostedCoast Highway ringing their houses with sandbags
by the safety advertisements that are regularly airedafter a period of prolonged rain. And I've sometimes
on television in California) sends you straight to shelterseen how the mudslides sweep all before it despite
of some sort; a doorway or beneath a table. In mythese precautions.
case, I happened to be sitting in my living room talkingSo to return to my original question: why do people
to someone on the telephone. Still clutching thechoose to live in California? It's simply because -
telephone, I dived under my dining room table anddespite the earthquakes, fires, mudslides, rattlesnakes,
stayed there until the terrific shaking stopped. I wastarantulas and God knows what else besides - it's the
unhurt and my apartment suffered only minor damage.most marvellous place to be!
I was lucky, for various colleagues had a variety of